The grass is definitely greener

One thing about doing a lot of highway driving: You see a lot of roadkill. Given that roadkill has been in the news lately, I have a heightened awareness of the possibilities. For instance, when I see deer, should I think, hmm, venison? I expect wackjobs will screech to a stop and scoop the carcass into the trunk of their Dodge Ram pickup. However, I don't know what to think when I see what looks like the flattened remains of a fox, a raccoon, a possum, a skunk, and what I fear might have been a guinea pig. Hard to say. After time baking in the sun, you can't really tell what it was. But seeing a fawn on the verge with its legs frozen in air saddens me deeply. I will not drive at night, mostly because I can't see well in the dark, but also because I don't want to hit anything that would prefer to live. I don't want to eat them, either.

The wildfire smoke chased me all the way across Montana and North Dakota. I did my best to stay ahead of it, running in the yellow zone, hoping it would dissipate before the red blob caught up to me. I was going to stay in Fargo, but my lungs were burning. I checked the smoke map and saw the red blob directly on top of the blue dot, which was me. It's like I somehow had attracted my own little bubble of smoke. Is that even possible? Fargo, I hardly knew you. I moved on and hunkered down at a Home Depot in a place called Fergus Falls. It was an uneasy night. The last few employee cars departed at 1:00 a.m., leaving me all alone, feeling like a sitting duck. I didn't think I would sleep. I woke when it was still dark to find my car surrounded by the cars of the 5:00 a.m. day shift. More were arriving. They got the drop on me, for sure. 

Chagrined, I scrambled into my pants, shucked my window covers, and eased out of the parking lot. Then I looked at my gas gauge. Note to self: It's better to get gas in the evening rather than in the dark before dawn. I found a 24-hour gas station nearby, which means at that hour, the pumps are on but nobody's home. I don't mind pumping my gas (used to it, California, Arizona, etc.), but I don't like pumping gas under bright fluorescent lights all by myself in the dark. When the gas started flowing, the little TV screen lit up and a man started shouting. I almost jumped out of my skin, until I realized he was hawking the services of a local bank. Sitting duck, again. 

Luckily, the only people out and about in Fergus Falls were the dozen or so Home Depot employees showing up for work before dawn. I had the streets to myself. I hit the road. Fergus Falls, never again.

If you like rolling hills and fields of green grass, yellow grass, occasional corn fields, and herds of cattle and sheep grazing under hundred-foot-wide watering machines amid scattered copses of green trees, Montana and North Dakota are for you. Montana was a bit yellower than North Dakota, with more open land, but along I-94, all the land in both states seemed to have been tamed by tractor ploughs. The beauty I saw on that drive belies the hell I know is coming. Probably soon. Snow, wind, ice, all the stuff I am desperate to avoid. 

Minnesota is green, too. So is Wisconsin. I'm gobsmacked by how green everything is. I always thought Northwest Oregon was the greenest place I'd ever seen, but goes to show how little I've seen. Oregon grass turned a dusty yellow-brown in the summer because we don't get rain for two or three months, and we have the kind of grass that does that naturally. The grass grew increasingly greener as I moved east. Is that a word, greener? More green? In sum, this part of the country is nothing like I imagined. 

I met a friend in Minneapolis. She offered me a bed for the night. I declined. We all know house guests who show up out of the blue expecting hospitality are just plain rude. She put aside her plans for the evening to take me to dinner. That was a gift. I was happy to spend the night on a quiet side street. As daylight was breaking, I headed southeast toward Madison, Wisconsin . . . Why? Just because. Why not? I've never been to Wisconsin. One place is as good as any when you have no destination. All of this is just because—all the parking lots, rest areas, Walmarts, and gas stations. It's about the journey. I'm leading a just-because life now, because I can. You probably wish you could, too. 

Oh, in case you are thinking of heading to North Dakota, don't bother to get off I-94 to see the Enchanted Highway. These gargantuan iron sculptures are the clickbait (should I say drivebait?) of an eccentric rural artist, designed to entice you to go an hour out of your way on a narrow windy road through a patchwork of green and brown fields, and you thinking, just over the next hill, just around the next bend, art, where is the damn art! I followed my blue dot on GPS out into the middle of bumfart nowhere. When my blue dot passed the spot of a supposed sculpture, with miles to the next art site, I realized I'd been conned. I turned around and called it a bust. I saw two sculptures. People I've asked said don't bother with Mt. Rushmore. I can now say the same thing about the Enchanted Highway.

I've learned that the best way to get a feel for a place is to GPS to the Walmart. Sleeping at rest stops might be more restful than bunking down on city streets or in Home Depot parking lots, but rest stops tell me nothing about the local area. I'm learning. Tomorrow I'm on my way to a town called Evanston, just north of Chicago. I have a friend there, who might be able to take time out of her busy morning to meet me for coffee.